Last month, Rufus and I headed back on that same road to the Transkei that we took during my first week at the LRC. This time, however, our stop was in Qunu. Note that Qunu is pronounced with a violent click on the “Q” that (according to my Xhosa book) is produced by sucking the front of the tongue to the front of the palate and pulling it away rapidly to produce a loud popping sound (give it a try – I can’t do it!).
Qunu is the village where Nelson Mandela spent the “happiest days” of his childhood and traces his earliest memories. He describes it in his autobiography Long Walk to Freedom:
The village of Qunu was situated in a narrow, grassy valley crisscrossed by clear streams, and overlooked by green hills. It consisted of no more than a few hundred people who lived in huts, known as rondavels, which were beehive-shaped structures of mud walls, with a wooden pole in the center holding up a peaked, grass roof. The floor was made of crushed ant-heap, the hard dome of excavated earth above an ant colony, and was kept smooth by smearing it regularly with fresh cow dung. The smoke from the hearth escaped through the roof, and the only opening was a low doorway one had to stoop to walk through. The rondavels were generally grouped together in a residential area that was some distance away from the maize fields. There were no roads, only paths through the grass worn away by barefooted boys and women. The women and children of the village wore blankets dyed in ocher; only the few Christians in the village wore Western-style clothing. Cattle, sheep, goats, and horses grazed together in common pastures. The land around Qunu was mostly treeless except for a cluster of poplars on a hill overlooking the village. The land itself was owned by the state. With very few exceptions, Africans at the time did not enjoy private title to land in South Africa but were tenants paying rent annually to the government. In the area, there were two small primary schools, a general store, and a dipping tank to rid the cattle of ticks and diseases.Much of Madiba’s description remains true. The village is a cluster of rondavels surrounded by the open veld and rolling hills of the Wild Coast.
As is often the case, I played a very minor role in the workshop because it was 90% in Xhosa. However, it was a remarkable experience to see women from these rural communities debating and sharing about their experiences in traditional governance. Some of the issues that arose: What should be done when there is more than one system of customary law within a court’s boundaries? Should the customary courts have a prescribed quota of women? Should people should be able to opt out of customary courts? What can be done to improve access to justice, particularly for women and in rural areas?
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I recently read in the newspaper of large number of doctors that have left South Africa for Canada and Australia, indicating significant brain drain. Most of them gave concern about crime in South Africa as the main reason for leaving, a few for better pay. Those who left for Canada also say they miss the open sky and warm weather in South Africa.
The towns in Canada welcome the doctors to fill the vacancies, but South Africans are crying for their loss. But recently there seem to have more instability in S Africa, so the emigration may accelerate.
http://www.canada.com/story.html?id=1072137
http://www.canada.com/story.html?id=1066084
http://www.canada.com/nanaimodailynews/news/business/story.html?id=45ce6a44-89b4-4bf6-b2cb-0b58ebf19466
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