JOZI

Of all the places in South Africa, before coming here, I was most intimidated by Johannesburg. I had heard awful stories about rape (people sleep in anti-rape cages!), muggings (in broad daylight!), carjackings (people don’t stop at red lights!), and other violent crimes. I even routed my flights through Cape Town to avoid the Joburg airport.

But you can’t live in South Africa long without wanting to meet Jozi. The first time I passed through (on my way to Groot Marico), the Joburg native I met quickly dashed the myth of the anti-rape cage. I started to hear about Jozi as “the most cosmopolitan city in Africa” and “the great big beating heart of South Africa” (Lonely Planet), “the world’s largest man-made forest” and "an absolutely exquisite city” (Joburg native), and “a lively place where there’s always something to do” (CBA intern in Joburg).

I headed to Joburg for a long weekend including Reconciliation Day (December 16). What a shock to be in the big city again! City lights, traffic, shopping malls, smog, starless nights… But also things to do, food to eat, places to spend money, sights to see.

First stop for law nerds is Constitution Hill, which contains South Africa’s new Constitutional Court and is built on the site of an old prison that housed Mandela and Ghandi. Since Lonely Planet touts it as “one of the city’s – if not the country’s – chief tourist attractions”, I was surprised to find only two other tourists (who, interestingly enough, had come down from Zimbabwe for “provisions”). We were free to wander around the old Number Four prison and the Old Fort. The Constitutional Court, which is the highest court for constitutional matters in South Africa, is beautiful: built around the stairwells of the old Awaiting Trial Block, large windows, colourful artwork with metaphorical meaning.

I also visited the township of Soweto. A “township” is essentially a poor non-white (obviously) suburb – but Soweto is so much more, with a population of over 2 million and unparalleled historical importance (centre of the resistance, site of the Soweto Uprising and the adoption of the Freedom Charter, Mandela’s and Tutu’s homes). Nowadays both rich and poor live in Soweto. And the drinks aren’t always cheap – R15 for Savannah at Sakumzis!

A highlight was meeting George Bizos at the LRC Joburg office and Constitutional Litigation Unit. The CBA Joburg interns showed me around and we had lunch with Mr. Bizos and a Wits law student working personally with Mr. Bizos for a month. It was an honour to meet this extraordinary man and watch him work.

There is more to see in Jozi, but it was plenty for my first visit. And after a weekend in the city, I was again astounded by the stars in the big Eastern Cape sky as I rode the shuttle back to Grahamstown.